Monday 30 March 2009

Living, Investing... in Greece. (1) Living

(That's a map of ancient Greece. Reputedly, things were better then.)

For anyone planning to live in Greece, invest in Greece, or simply move to Greece for a while, pointers and support are generally (if not generously) available.

Here I will give brief, but in my opinion most pertinent, guiding principles. These are ruling maxims, if you will.
Following these, everyday life falls into place and understanding is easy.

The order of presentation will leave some to be desired. I tried to work my way from the general to the particular; nevertheless, readers will notice many lapses in this logical sequence and will have to excuse my muddle-headedness.
Please be advised that contemporary Greeks, i.e. the contemporary inhabitants of Greece of Hellenic origin (i.e. in no order, Athenians, Megariotes, Macedonians, Corinthians, Eubiotes, Cretans, Rhodans, Peloponnesians.... etc) are commonly referred to in Greek as neoGreeks.


Moving to
and Living in Greece: preliminary consideration
You are expected to have property in Greece before you move here. Preferably inherited. Please keep in mind that, by Continental European standards, Greece is expensive. In all but renting real estate, prices are slightly to considerably higher than elsewhere.
Buying property is relatively easy but establishing your title on that property can be tricky.
Any newcomer to Greece, not arriving to claim inheritance, is a potential source of income -- or unwelcome. This is not to discourage anyone -- rather, it is an explanation.
The above is a generalised fact; I went through it as have others and as will others. It applies to all who have moved to Greece from the late '80s onwards.


Moving to and Living in Greece: the Dominant (predominant) lifestyle
Here as elsewhere, there is an cultural undercurrent, a denominator which shapes everyday life -- as it is lived by some and pursued as a goal by others.
The institutions, as presented and in their daily operation reflect this clearly. Understanding this brings a ray of light to all the shady perversions of mondanity.
Urban Greece is for healthy adults, educated elsewhere, with independent sources of income, appreciative of lightweight conversation and socialising (superficial is OK) -- in short, a country where applied leisure is the national vision & supererogatory goal.

Other parts of the population are a hindrance if not a nuisance.

E.g. You are most welcome to have coffee at a trendy cafe, at any time of the day -- particularly during all working time of the day. In fact, you can sit for hours on end with just one drink. Reading a paper. (This is most enjoyable in a country where the weather sometimes allows outdoor drinks in mid-December -- and this is not a side effect of global warming.)

This is because the predominant lifestyle is... just that, and it is thereby cherished and protected.
In this respect, and within limits of other peoples' leisure and the entertainment /Horeca industry, you can generally do anything.

Example 1: park your car anywhere. But NOT, leave your pram anywhere UNLESS it is at a cafe -- where it is tolerated but not condoned.

The limits to your freedom derive from any hindrance to the "rule of leisure"; i.e. if you actually disturb other peoples' leisure. If your car blocks access to a cafe -- but NOT if your car blocks a pedestrian crossing (unless said crossing facilitates a bar or a cafe-restau).

This is instrumental if the newcomer is to understand why, say, an automobile belonging to, and driven by a healthy adult takes precedence over a pram holding a dependent baby and driven by an adult.

It is important to understand that this habit is neither good or bad -- it just is. Moralising about the precendence to the needy gets you nowhere in Greece -- it simply is NOT on the agenda.
Likewise, parents are NOT supported in any institutional way; while this may be frowned upon elsewhere, it must be clearly understood that in Greece, mothers are NOT a priority. Indeed, many women become mother out of an inculcated urge or strategic necessity and perhaps patriotic duty, rather than any inherently parental consideration.

Point 2
Thereby, Greece is generally hostile to two categories of the population: children & the elderly.
This is not a cultural matter, but a practical one. Both -- particularly children -- are mostly a hindrance to leisure and pleasure.
Political correctitude apart where everyone wastes their breath touting the importance of children and respect for the elders, we don't waste our money throwing it away where our mouth is:
  • if you need a dependable school, it is privately operated;
  • childrens' activities are few & far between. The nation's capital sporting one small building in Plaka (the old town) called the childrens' museum; the building is run mostly by volunteers and the building is run down;
  • children don't vote, so there is another reason why throwing money at them is a waste of money;
  • children are the antithesis of leisure -- unless you have 24/7/365 nannies, which few can afford;Bulleted List
  • the only exception is childrens' parties & funparks -- but these really facilitate adults' leisure and offer parents some pleasure;
  • childrens' prams take up space which can usefully be allocated to tables for adults; they require pavements which can be better used as expensive extensions to real estate and the horeca industry; they require armies of teachers, etc; and children take away from the leisure industry all the adults who have to supervise them.
  • Summing up overall, last but not in any way least, children and pensioners, are expensive. Good money, thrown away at hospitals, retirement benefits (sometimes delayed hoping for the beneficiary's), teachers in sundry pretence of education...
  • add lib

Point 3

Greenery and global warming.
In Greece we are particularly concerned about global warming. Indeed, awareness has reached stratospheric levels in this country and Greece is probably one of the statistical leaders. In fact, Green is trendy, Green is very neoGreek. When Porsche, an automobile manufacturer, offers a green model, Greece is sure to be one of its best, if not THE best, markets.
As long as we can just speak about it and on occasion get together to switch off the lights collectively sipping a well-deserved glass of wine.
In Greece, being very Green does not extend to actually doing anything about it. Indeed, being very active and, consequently, noisy, about it is in very bad taste.





Comin up: Being focused on leisure and entertainment, Greece does NOT favour nor does Greece COMPREHEND any business initiative and activity OTHER than in the horeca & entertainment industries.
Many complain about institutions, corrupt civil servants, unfriendly authorities, etc. They are wrong.
It is simple to understand...}

Thursday 19 March 2009

Schools in Athens, Disctrict of Attica, Greece (4)

(con'nued from previous)

If you have children, small or otherwise...
...that would be private schools.

Costea-Geitona (CGS) has nice facilities attesting to wise use of funds -- and lots of them. Private secondary school is good business in Greece, nay, getting better and better as public (grammar & local) schooling gets worse and gradually abandoned. You just have to see CGS' buildings to realise - goodness, the schools has been around for ~30 years. Not that long, considering the likes of Jeanne d'Arc.

And yet.

CGS -- I started out as a hard-working nobody and now am a fully fledged somebody, with solid foundations &, some, very good points to make in secondary schooling.

CGS management had the bright idea to join the IB bandwagon very early and to supplement the Greek Ministry of Education curriculum (admittedly, more of a hindrance as private eductational institutions in Greece probably know education better than Ministry apparatchiks with questionable credentials) with IB's skills-centred appraoch to learning. Its IB programme is also reputed to have results - i.e. many students get offers at first choice universities.
And, they are welcoming, and... expensive. You are convinced The only setback is, there is nothing particularly obvious to choose this school rather than another. No offense meant; as a matter of fact, there is nothing to dissuade one from actually chosing CGS, despite its "youth".

_____________


Another well-known institution, albeit with a much longer history, is Ziridi. Here, there is a 75 year history and a strong family undercurrent -- the Ziridi family, that is, with Ms Ziridi (amazingly for her apparent age, only 2nd generation) on the home page. To give credit where it's due, the P.A. is well supported and active, too and, the point being made is that this school is also a family -- not an institution.

SO far so good.

"We're a family of school-children and our school family name is Ziridi."

Having stated this, the old tradition that came with the original "Lykeion i Athena" is no longer. As a matter of fact, the present name is "new gen Ziridi". Unlike new gen coke that bombed, this one hasn't.

The school is heavy on competencies, things environmental (Greeks are into these, as long as it doesn't require them to actually do anything more than talk and, occasionally, switch off the lights for an hour) -- and sports a "botanical garden" (i.e. nice looking and scenting herbs planted in its grounds); some traditions are still favoured the highlight (IMO) being the inauguration of the new campus with the presence of no less than His All Holiness, Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew, Archbishop of Constantinople and New Rome.

Wow.

Of course, Ziridi is "connected" to the legendary Great School of the Nation -- Megali tou Genous Scholi (in Greek) -- the school of all schools, with a list of Principals going back to 1454. Now that's prestigious. That, is also the one school that is supervised by the Patriarchate.
{Unfortunately, the school, situated in Turkish territory, is regularly attacked & pillaged after the Turkish government in 1945 simply kicked out 250.000 people of Greek origin and, of course, pocketed their belongings.}

So, does one choose the "new gen Ziridi", with its penchant for competencies in 1-6th formers and a preference for IB?

Let's stay tuned.

p.s. is it necessary to repeat that teaching of English as a second language is excellent in both schools?

Thursday 12 March 2009

Schools in Athens, District of Attica (3)

(...continued...)

Another school, this one inspired the following thought: "we are self-contained and content to be as, and who, we are".

This is ACS, no longer catering only to Americans as the name would imply; reportedly, ACS has a very international student body.
However, many of the children are transients. Your child's friend(s) may have to leave soon, move to another country. Sad.
Therein lies a problem.

Otherwise it seems that the school(s) has its act together, wants to have fun in teaching and learning; its teachers try to inspire creative thinking; and lots of empowerment (to use one of Human Resources' many emetic mumbo-jumbos) goes to the "kids".
Also children are encouraged to take little if any homework home... Learn to work well & efficiently.

Sounds good.

Very expensive.

Conflicting views on academic achievement of its alumni. No one seems to dispute, however, that children have fun at ACS.

Who is the lady in the picture opposite? As a special treat, the first three students to give the correct answer will get a bonus extra 5 points on their IB results!

Friday 6 March 2009

Schools in Athens, Disctrict of Attica, Greece (2)

(con'nued from previous)
If you have children, small or otherwise...
...that would be private schools.

The redoubtable Athens College seems to be the indisputable king of privately managed educational institutions in Greece and, originally, a boys' school. Athens College now also accepts girls. There are two educational institutions, created mostly in response to some neo-fascist request from Greece's bureaucracy some 10 years ago. "AC" refers to both.

My one-liner: AC is the school for the children of influential people. AC accepts offspring that promises to be influential.

It is as simple as that.
It does not really matter if you are poor or rich or in-between, if you can pay or not the tuition fees. Anyway, 400 children at AC (out of 3000?) have a scholarship.
It only matters that you are influential or that your child promises the be distinctive (note: not necessarily exceptional, but distinctive).

p. s. The AC grounds and facilities are nothing short of phenomenal, certainly the best by far I've seen both in Athens and Paris. Possibly envied worldwide. The secondary schools classes held in what used to be the boarding houses, are not so impressive. Years ago, the AC facilities were in a different planet -- not just a different league -- compared to the rest on offer. Fortunately, others are catching up somewhat.

Unless you are an influential alumnus, or very dangerous to the schools survival (a Greek politician, for example;) chances of getting your child at AC are slim, and not worth the investment in time. Oh, yes, AC is as impressive as it is expensive. The most expensive probably -- closely followed or surpassed by St. CAtherine's below.

________NEXT (in random order)

St. Catherine's British Embassy School. Rumour has it, this school has one of the best, if not the best, academic standards. I have a soft spot; I was a British Embassy School student in my time. Different city.
The curriculum, the creativity involved in its conception and the thoroughness with which it is followed: very good.
One-liner: "we are a distinctive island in the midst of everyone" The school's culture sports an insular exclusivity. Some children will feel left out, despite efforts by the teaching staff. Some children will never feel "one of us".
Best thing to be, English; second best, top performer and tall if male, or attractive if female. Reportedly, the third best thing to be is Australian; the attraction of the exotic? (Best of all, of course, is still wealthy and generous.)

The academic achievement of its graduates is indisputable and, the school is probably well positioned in the listings of the world's top secondary schools. Teaching of Greek is weak compared to the rest. It is also a has a reasonable student body with an accordingly large teaching body. If you cannot pay, your child will be kicked out without any ado, so check what is under the floor-boards (presumably your banker no longer exists or is in extinction mode). If your child cannot cope with the curriculum and you can pay through your nose, the child will be given many chances to make it. If the child does make it, but you cannot pay it -- your child will be kicked out, politely.

The grounds are decent, adequate and (surprisingly) maintained. The extracurricular activities, sometimes varying from one year to the other, are typically interesting and educational, if not particularly exciting.
Reportedly (by its admin staff) there is a depressingly long waiting list for 1st formers. If you are impressively rich or drink with whoever is UK ambassador to Greece, or are yourself the ambassador, or part of HRM's or Ozz's dip missions to Greece, the waiting list commendably disappears. Purportedly, Canadians are also accepted -- but never find any chairs left for their children. Fortunately, some Canadians have some proximity to the French language which opens up more possibilities for their offspring.


________NEXT (in random order)

The oldest privately held and operated school in Greece is French, Ecole Jeanne d'Arc. 150 years old, as touted on the site. J d'A gets the gold medal for
longevity and consistency. It follows the french curriculum with additions of couleur locale, and strongly supported but quietly encouraged creativity.

One-liner: J d'A is a scholastic institution of modern Greece. The bacs (baccalauréats) it delivers are a by-product of the institution's operation.

It is neither well-known nor unknown. Neiother discussed nor shunned. In fine, its culture wills it to be friendly and heart-warming; the soeurs run the school and they adhere to their religious discipline. Accordingly they expect others to adhere to their own discipline, whether identical or not. Within this frame of self-discipline, freedom is encouraged.

The motto is, this is a good school for good students, but can cater to and support and deal with exceptional students as well. It is probably true, with a slight predominance in the literary, rather than tech, subjects.

Schools in Athens, District of Attica, Greece. (1)

If you have children, small or otherwise...
...that would be private schools.

Exclusively.
All hogwash and balderdash to the contrary is just that...
Why? Because today's excellent, well-honed, organised local school is tomorrow's shooting back alley. Why? Because that superb and inspired teacher moved to another location; because teachers' pay at 20 years experience level is EURO: 1.327,0 /month, because there is little motivation, no recognition of effort expended, and even less on-going education...
so most will moonlight private lessons, go on sick leave, strike, /all or some of the above... and then some.

Presently I am checking out schools -- yet again. First time it was for my elder in Paris, France. There's really nothing to check out there; "public" (grammar) schools there are good to very-good unless otherwise indicated -- in which case they are excellent to outstanding. You may not like the system, but the academic and scholastic levels are beyond reproach.
This is not (no longer, I've been told) the case in Athens, capital of Greece.

Friends have checked this out before me. I am now checking it out. Greek, English schools, écoles Francaises... (I don't know nor understand German-except for German music 65 years old at its youngest)


There many private schools in and at the outskirts of Athens, many sporting phenomenal facilities and impressive buildings and, not least, very good credentials -- academic and otherwise. English taught as a foreign language in Greece is consistently outstanding. Greek taught as a foreign or mother tongue is less consistent in quality.

I propose to protray my impressions of schools I visit and add a comment on school personality / image. A display of uniquely differentiating factor for each institution, as it were.
At the onstart, all the schools look good -- in fact, the impressions range from good to excellent -- were it for their educational promise or their facilities (Greek schools) or both (Athens College, for example).

So, I propose to make


Oh yes, before we get to the core let's cut to the chase: EURO 12.000 / year for primary school is in the ballpark. Plus busing and similar superfluous luxuries such as food. Total should exceed 14k, yes, four-teen thousand Euro i.e. 18 thousand USD per year. For a full 12 year programme to graduation, parents are looking at euro: 150k in constant terms. Yes, that's before college. You can buy a small flat in a rotten area for that kind of money. Or you might just pack your bags and move elsewhere -- France say. But we're not there, yet.

Starting with the schools, the order only relates to random how thoughts in my mind manufest themselves -- or the proximity of my visit/ research on that particular schools. Nothing scholastic.

Athens College, aka the Hellenic-American Educational Foundation and its redoubtable alumni association.

Know anyone??? (For expats considering Greece as their destination)

It took me a very long stay in Greece, to understand that it's all about who you know -- not what you know, or what rule you adhere to, or what you believe in, or....

When you need to solve or resolve, anything, you must first check if it can't be done through connections. Easily, friendly, efficiently and, often, justly. If this fails, -- ie. you have NO connections -- you turn to institutions. Which don't always credibly seem to have their official raison d'etre coincide with what they actually do
Justice, is not quite there to administer justice (but to divide the spoils)
Education should not be seen primarily as a means to educate (but rather, as employment for graduates in otherwise useless disciplines)
...etc.

Ad nauseam.

Please introduce me to someone -- no, THREE INFLUENTIAL people. When I settle in Greece for ever, I will include them in my immediate family.
These are,
An active politician
An active doctor
An active lawyer